Tasty Bites

Marilyn June 13th, 2007

This dynamic city (and region) today produces half the wealth of China and is a showcase for development in this emerging communist country.  It has had a fascinating history of foreign occupation (French, English, Americans and White Russians) during the period when China was closed to the world from 1650 to the early 20th century.  In the 1920s it was a modern, decadant city of opium, Chinese ‘mafia’, liberal sexual mores and was known as the ‘Paris of the East’ or ‘Whore of the Orient’ — it was a very exotic port of call.  

Where do I start?  This could be a great few days holiday for a group of women who love to shop, indulge in massages and have no trouble wiling away the time in very groovy bars and upmarket fusion restaurants. Shanghaiese always lead the way in China and there are some very edgy fashion boutiques and stylish young women, to draw your eye.

On the other hand … as cities go, I can name many others that would have my vote for a return trip. The colonial buildings on the Bund, alongside the river are impressive at night and looking across to the ‘star wars’ modern buildings of Pudong opposite (festooned in an amazing amount of neon) is pretty impressive.  But Shanghai is a building site with mess everywhere, chaotic traffic and not much history in evidence. The French Concession has interesting boutiques and tree-lined streets but is rather ‘down at heel’.  The Old Town (Chinatown) is a must see but much of it is like a reproduction Disneyland version of what once was.  Do have tea though at the 1920s Mid-Lake Pavilion Teahouse. The nibbles are not to our taste but the experience is worth the $6 charge. 

The good bits … taxis are clean and in abundance costing $1.80-$3 for most trips which makes getting around a breeze.  The locals are cheerful, good mannered and I have never felt safer anywhere in the world.  That included trawling down back alleys, up broken stairs and thru people ramshackle living rooms to a locked room — which contained illegal copies of brand handbags, watches and the like.  The government is not too fussed (they get taxes from the illegal factories) so they only go thru the motions of containing this burgeoning industry. Push bikes are left unshackled and my friend, who has lived there for 5 months, has never heard of anyone having their bag snatched. They take great pride in their gardens and the city, though shambolic in parts, is quite clean. There is no tipping except in Western restaurant and bars where they add 15%.

The shopping … is amazing.  I had beautiful silk shirts made in my choice of fabric for $32, hand-beaded evening bags for $9, leather knock-off (Dior, Chanel etc) wallets for $25, 2 metres of beautiful silk brocade fabric for an evening jacket for $20.  You must learn to bargain hard though, and you get used to doing that. I am told though that Beijing is cheaper and better.  Be aware that knock-off handbags/wallets/belts/shoes come in 2 types — plastic versions and leather (they are very difficult to tell apart) so always use your nose to identify which is which.

Don’t be afraid, have a massage … Dragonfly have 3 outlets in Shanghai or ask for a recommendation from your hotel.  It is cheap and expertly done.  I had The Hangover Cure which involved 1 hour of foot and shoulder massage, then into another very dark, atmospheric room where I had a further hour of body massage – without removing my “pyjamas”.  It was a sort of pummel and squeeze job.  Marvellous.

The eating and bar scene … is groovy but you pay Australian prices.  Do however try Chinese restaurants.  This is a huge subject so I can only suggest that you read the various guides — my bible was The Lonely Planet, which generally had excellent advice.

The down side … Shanghai has some of the worst pollution in the world so don’t expect to see any blue sky. The pollution hangs low like a pale grey opaque blanket, and even in a week it began to get to me.  Nobody speaks English, except the occasional hotel desk clerk.  So you must get them to write in Chinese characters where you are going, so you can “converse” with the taxi driver.  Riding in a taxi is one of the scariest or most exciting experiences in this city.  I just closed my eyes, having great faith because we did not see any accidents, and it was like waltzing at high speed but not crashing into any other couple on the dance floor. Everyone smokes … everywhere and a bottle of ordinary Aussie wine will cost you $100 in a smart fusion restaurant.

Finally … I was disapointed that the amazing history of this exotic city was not in evidence (perhaps the Red Guards and prosperity have destroyed it), but if you can find a private guide, perhaps you will discover a completely different Shanghai. 

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