The Dordogne, France
Marilyn October 10th, 2007
The outside temperature is minus 59C and I’m on to my second glass of Champagne. My flight back to Oz, after 3 intensive weeks of eating and drinking in France, was supposed to be the start of my diet … but what’s one more day?
I’ve consumed more than my fair share of foie gras, duck confit, cepes, terrine, french bread and sublime butter (what is it we do to Australian butter to make it so … ordinary?). With some of the family we have rented a village house for a week in the Dordogne (or Perigord) –in south west France. This is an area that still feels quite traditional, with many medieval walled (bastide) villages, beautiful rivers, forests and superb markets (marche) are a regular feature of town life – the sheer variety and quantity of lovely handcrafted food leaves me breathless.How do they sell this much food in one day? Even the local French Supermarche (Woolworths and Coles could learn a lot!) groans with countless fresh cheeses, acres of glistening-eyed fish, endless choices of pates and terrines, breads and wine.
It is early Autumn (Sept) and the weather is quite beautiful. We have rented a car and intend to tootle sedately from our village house in Belves, to castles, prehistoric sites and fortified villages nearby. The standout towns for us were Salat and Monpazier. which both have weekly markets, a ’must do’. Look out for antique linen shops. But most of the fun is in discoverying your own favourites.
Other highlights were the Chateau de Castelnaud and nearby gardens of Manoir d’Eyrignac — acres of formal gardens with their scuptured trees and shrubs, where you can have an excellent casual lunch. If you have a perverse need to know why foie gras tastes so good, you can even do a tour of a goose farm: La Ferme de Turnac, near Domme.
Information: We flew into Paris and then caught the GTV (very fast train) 2 hrs SW to Angouleme where we picked up our rental car. This is a small town where driving out onto the country roads is not a hassle — we never rent out of big cities. There are all the big car rental companies at the station. I would also recommend renting a GPS system (you will have to take it from Australia) or you will need very detailed maps to find your way around the small country roads.
When to Go: We recommend late spring or early Autumn — May or Sept. July and August in particular are too hot and crowded.
Accommodation: There are a number of organisation that rent houses in France; we chose Eurovillas (03) 95932170 www.eurovillas.com.au.
Or stay at at le Vieux Logis hotel in the tiny village of Tremolat, centrally positioned between Bergerac/Perigueux/Brive. This lovely manor house hotel oozes character and features a 1-star Michelin rated restaurant. Demi-pension (room/breakfast/dinner) is 323-478E. www.vieux-logis.com.