Maz November 12th, 2011
'Far North Queensland -- Port Douglas 1992' by Brett Whiteley
On a recent trip to Sydney, I spent some time in gentrified Surry Hills, a previously rundown suburb on the southern edge of the city. It now boasts some of the grooviest new restaurants, cafes, furnishing & homewares and edgy shops in Sydney. Art Galleries also seem to be multiplying (7 are listed in the very useful Surry Hills Walkabout guides found in every shop www.urbanwalkabout.com).
I can particularly recommend the Brett Whiteley Studio. This is where one of Australia’s most celebrated artists lived and worked from 1988 to 1992 – and it’s one of Sydney’s best kept secrets. The Studio exhibits a changing selection of Whiteley’s work. Go upstairs and you get glimpses into his private world, with his sketchbooks, photographs, music and personal memorabilia. It’s free and open on Saturdays & Sundays 10am-4pm at 2 Raper Street, Surry Hills. (Don’t be put off if the heavy wooden door is closed with a note saying: “Warning, don’t enter if nudity offends”. Often life drawing classes are in progress.
Maz July 29th, 2011
Angelique Chrisafis of The Gardian reports:
The doomed plane trees of the Canal du Midi
An unstoppable fungal disease has left France no choice but to reach for the chain saw, bringing down the ceiling of leaves covering the nation’s most romantic waterway. The felling of these trees is seen as a national tragedy and its Unesco heritage status is at risk.
The 42,000 plane trees provide a beautiful dappled canape over the Canal du Midi, which winds from Toulouse to the Mediterranean. They date back to the reign of the Sun King Louis XIV. The disease has spread steadily along the canal since being identified in 2006. It arrived in France in wooden ammunition boxes of American GIs in World War II.
Replanting will start soon but it will take 30-40 years to replant the famous leafy lane that runs for 200 kms through the historic heart of southrern France. 2000 trees will be felled by the end of this year, and 4000 next year until they are all gone. So, if you ever planned to travel on this wonderful waterway, DON’T delay — see details of our recent trip in a post below.
Maz July 15th, 2011
Blanc started out life in the hospitality business as a waiter. He taught himself how to cook and his Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons (outside London in lovely Oxfordshire) has had 2 Michelin stars for 25 years. He now heads up an empire that includes various bistros, TV series, books and a cooking school. But Le Manoir is his focus and he has spent decades renovating the beautiful old buildings and gardens. He is dedicated to producing as much organic produce for the restaurant as possible and in summer has 10 gardeners. Le Manoir itself is set in acres of beautiful gardens and has 32 guestrooms.
Manoir Chef, Bruno, Francis, Me & Raymond Blanc
We had lunch there with Bruno and Catherine Loubet (Raymond Blanc was his mentor) and then stayed overnight. In Blanc’s own words he wants his guests to find perfection in food, comfort, service and welcome. It ticked all those boxes for us and is an experience we will remember for a long time. For more information about this amazing retreat: www.manoir.com
Maz July 6th, 2011
Chef Di Holuigue's cooking class at La Combe
Imagine a beautifully restored 18th century country house in South West France, with 7 of your best pals. An 8 day program of hands-on cooking with a top chef. Daily guided trips to places you would have difficulty finding — like Edouard Aynaud’s truffle farm, the last working water-powered walnut mill or lunch in the grounds of a 10th century abbey. Add to this the marvellous markets in 16th century town of Sarlat, lunch at a 1-Michelin star restaurant, visit some artists’ studios, buy antique linens for really reasonable prices … and of course lots of eating.
Francis and I spent a wonderful week at La Combe en Perigord in probably France’s premier food region — the Dordogne (or if you use the old name, Perigord Noir) in South West France. The 3200 euros cost per person includes absolutely everything — accommodation,cooking school, all meals and wines, restaurants and informative guided tours every day. Simply one of our best holidays ever.
Market day in 16th century town of Salat
Expat Aussie Wendely Harvey and husband Robert Cave-Rogers give you a very personal glimpse of life in France. An editor of cook books for many years, she translated her love of food, decor and the dream of living in France … into a business operating during the French summer.
Other highlights were a visit to a world-renowned prehistoric cave painting site, 18th century formal French gardens, foie gras farm and a walk through Limeuil, one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France. For more information: www.lacombe-perigord.com
Our culinary class have lunch at Michelin-starred Le Vieux Logis in Tremolat
Maz June 27th, 2011
We have recently returned from a marvellous month’s holiday in France. May is one of the best times to travel over there. It is late Spring and this year (UK and France are in drought) we had perfect weather. I can highly recommend the canal boat we booked for a week on the Canal du Midi, one of prettiest stretches of the vast canal system in France. ‘Tango’ is a beautifully restored 1930s traditional canal boat — 30 metres long and with generous living and deck areas. It accommodates 6-8 people in 4 ensuite cabins. We had skipper and owner Daniel, chef Tony, guide Christophe and the gorgeous Angie to look after our every need — all speak perfect English. 
We spent a week gliding along the canal (at walking pace) enjoying wonderful meals aboard, and every day Christophe took us off for a few hours adventure to nearby villages, chateaux, a winery, fresh food markets and historic towns. This is the best way to holiday … unpack only once for the week and your floating hotel follows you. We ended up at Carcassonne, one of the most amazing restored medieval cities in the world. And ate (in a little hidden restaurant up a back lane) the best Cassoulet ever — though I think our chef Graham Waddell’s version on our current Winter Menu is equal to it.
This type of holiday is quite intimate and you interact closely with the crew. I don’t think it would suit teenagers or small children though. It is quiet, contemplative, visually stunning and a total delight. Everything is included in your holiday price: all meals, drinks, wines, trips and restaurants off the boat.
One highlight was an unusual lunch in the markets at Narbonne. Chez Bebelle is owned by a popular retired rugby player whose cafe adjoins two butchers – one selling horse meat and the other beef. When you put in your order, Bebelle uses a megaphone to shout the cut of meat required from one of these butchers. The meat is wrapped and then hurled 10 metres over the heads of customers. The atmosphere is a hoot … chaotic, loud and buzzing with happy customers munching on their steak et frittes. Prices are very reasonable and the place is always full at lunchtime.
We had just spent half an hour wandering the fresh food markets which was packed with the most wonderful fresh produce. Acres of terrines & cheeses, rabbits and chicken with their heads still on, white asaparagus and amazing mushrooms. Our guide Christophe bought a huge platter of the freshest prawns, sea snails and oysters to have whilst we waited for our steaks to be cooked. Highly recommended! More details about ‘Tango’ go to www.canalsoffrance.com
Maz March 19th, 2010
I’m not thrilled by a great deal these days, but having dinner and a cooking class with Rick Stein in his new restaurant at Mollymook (3 hrs south of Sydney) is the best thing I’ve done in ages. I have been a fan because he is so down to earth and uncheffy, and he does a good line is gastro-tourism with his very entertaining TV series – French Odyssey (canal boating thru France), Mediterranean Escapes and coming to ABC TV in May Far Eastern Odyssey. All of these by the way come with the same-name cookbook. He is just as charming and passionate in person, as on film.
Rick Stein at Bannisters (Bannisters is a boutique hotel at Mollymook) is the first restaurant he has done outside his home base of Padstow in the UK. We were part of a group of foodies who spent 2 days at the hotel indulging in some excellent food, a dinner with Rick and a cooking class at his nearby home. Here is a very easy recipe he gave us, perfect for your next dinner party:
Marinated Tuna with Passionfruit, Lime & Coriander
“Chefs agree that tuna is best served rare. Here I’ve taken the idea of a ceviche and added some Australian flavours — but don’t marinate the fish for longer than 10 minutes.” Rick Stein
3cm thick piece of tuna loin fillet (or Atlantic Salmon)
1 tablespoon lime juice
2 passionfruit
3 tablespoons sunflower oil
1 medium/hot green chilli, seeded and finely chopped
1 teaspoon caster sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander
1/2 teaspoon salt plus ground black pepper
Slice tuna into very thin slices. Lay slices overlapping onto plaates. Just before serving make the dressing. Sieve passionfruit pulp into a bowl to extract the juice and mix the rest of the ingredients. Spoon marinade over tuna for 10 minutes only and serve.
Gregor & Lewis Bespoke Travel at Noosa organised the trip, and hopefully will be able to do another … after Rick has filmed his northern Spain/Portugal TV series. noosa@gregorlewis.com.au or phone 5447 4666.
Maz October 4th, 2009
Did you know that you can take a 2 1/2 hr canal boat ride, starting in the centre of Paris (under the Bastille) and finishing in the gentrified suburb of Parc de la Villette? The cruise takes you via the 100 year old Canal Saint Martin, through four locks and two swing bridges, past retro style cafes and shows you “Parisians’ Paris”. Whilst in a long tunnel at the beginning of the trip they give you a “Sound and Light” history trip of the area. Quite unlike anything else we have ever done in Paris. You can catch the Metro back into Paris from Parc de la Villette. More info: www.canauxrama.com
Maz October 3rd, 2009
We have just returned from Paris and this time we took an apartment for 5 nights, rather than a hotel room. Paris hotel rooms are notoriously miniscule (they must price real estate there by the square inch), and even though our “apartment” was hardly commodious it was still the much better option. Get a one bedroom not a studio, so that if one of you is jetlagged you have the living room to read your book, rather than perching on the toilet in the middle of the night. We used ParisAddress.com which gives you excellent information (including the square meterage of the unit) and you can book in real time. It pays to do your homework on which areas of Paris you prefer. We like Ile Saint Louis (the little island behind Notre Dame) because it’s 17th century little streets are like a village in the heart of Paris. Other areas to consider are the Marais (the medieval Jewish sector) and The Latin Quarter. I prefer to avoid the Champs Elysee and Louvre areas because of the wide boulevards and traffic. If you are set on a hotel check out Hotel du Jeu de Paume on the Ile Saint Louis (www.jeudepaumehotel.com) — small and full of character.
Another option is VRBO (Vacation Rental By Owner) which Kathy from Lets Travel told me about (minimum 2 nights). Kathy said that she did this very successfully in Rome, where the owner picked them up at the Airport and showed them the nuts and bolts of the apartment.
Maz August 4th, 2009
Just returned from Sydney and can recommend these 2 hotels — ones that you may not have considered before:
The Lord Nelson Hotel
The Lord Nelson Hotel — said to be the oldest hotel in Sydney, it is situated in the Rocks area in a quiet backwater on the corner of Argyle Place & Kent Street. It is a micro brewery, popular bar, brasserie and rooms. The queen or king bedrooms with ensuite and breakfast (with contemporary fitout) cost $190. The rooms offer individual charm and with only 9 rooms you wont find any specials for this hotel on Wotif. I would however check how noisy it gets downstairs in the bar in the evenings.
Observatory Hotel
The Observatory Hotel – is now 16 years old but has the timeless appearance of an old (but stylish) English aunt. The rooms are huge and luxurious and as a “small” hotel of 100 rooms you are really looked after by staff who really care. Although they do have harbour view rooms (Darling Harbour, not the more spectacular views you get from Circular Quay hotels) I would choose the city view rooms – their standard room at $315 per night, and worth every penny. (There may be specials on Wotif.) It also has an amazing subterranean heated pool with twinkling LED lights on a deep blue ceiling — just like the movies — and a spa for massages and facials. The high tea is quite special too. This hotel is part of the Orient-Express group of unique hotels, cruises and luxury rail advantures.
Marilyn April 13th, 2009
I don’t know about you, but the last thing I want to do this year is shoe-horn myself onto a plane for 25 hours and go to depressed Europe or the UK. I have better things to do with my money.
With this thought in mind we recently spent 2 wks in one of our favourite places — New Zealand. Close to home, and great value for money (the exchange rate is very much in our favour at the moment), NZ offers relaxed touring on uncongested roads, great food, wine and accommodation options and fabulous scenery … not a grey gum tree in sight.
International carriers like Emirates are only charging about $200 each way to Auckland, a city remarkably like Brisbane in size and feel. We had two outstanding meals there – at the French Cafe (not a bit like a cafe, but a quietly elegant upmarket restaurant), and Soul at the Viaduct on the harbour. Both remarkably busy considering that New Zealand has been in recession for over a year now.
Whilst in Auckland try to spend time on a nearby island called Waiheke, a charming 45 minute ferry trip from Auckland harbour. There are some excellent overnight accommodation options or just go over for the day. Besides being very scenic, there are wineries and olive oil producers — have lunch at Mudbrick Restaurant or Cable Bay Vineyards. Take a private tour of the island in a 6 seater bus with Christine Gisby www.seewaiheke.co.nz
A 40 minute drive north of Auckland is Matakana, a small village with an exceptional Farmers’ Market every Sat morning. Introduced to us by Lauraine Jacobs, a food editor with Cuisine Magazine (one of the best food mags in the world we believe, and comes bi-monthly out of little NZ). She has written a book about Matakana (recipes, where to stay and eat) so tap into some local knowledge and buy it directly from her: jacobs@ihug.co.nz
New Zealand is an easy place to discover yourself, but here are a few tips: Continue Reading »
