Rick Stein at Bannisters (Bannisters is a boutique hotel at Mollymook) is the first restaurant he has done outside his home base of Padstow in the UK.  We were part of a group of foodies who spent 2 days at the hotel indulging in some excellent food, a dinner with Rick and a cooking class at his nearby home.  Here is a very easy recipe he gave us, perfect for your next dinner party:

Marinated Tuna with Passionfruit, Lime & Coriander

“Chefs agree that tuna is best served rare.  Here I’ve taken the idea of a ceviche and added some Australian flavours — but don’t marinate the fish for longer than 10 minutes.”  Rick Stein

3cm thick piece of tuna loin fillet (or Atlantic Salmon)

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 passionfruit

3 tablespoons sunflower oil

1 medium/hot green chilli, seeded and finely chopped

1 teaspoon caster sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander

1/2 teaspoon salt plus ground black pepper

Slice tuna into very thin slices.  Lay slices overlapping onto plaates.  Just before serving make the dressing.  Sieve passionfruit pulp into a bowl to extract the juice and mix the rest of the ingredients. Spoon marinade over tuna for 10 minutes only and serve.

Gregor & Lewis Bespoke Travel at Noosa organised the trip, and hopefully will be able to do another … after Rick has filmed his northern Spain/Portugal TV  series. noosa@gregorlewis.com.au or phone 5447 4666.

]]> http://marilyn.com.au/2009/10/something-quite-different-in-paris/feed/ 0 http://marilyn.com.au/2009/10/the-new-way-to-travel/ http://marilyn.com.au/2009/10/the-new-way-to-travel/#comments Sat, 03 Oct 2009 23:26:06 +0000 admin http://marilyn.com.au/?p=175 We have just returned from Paris and this time we took an apartment for 5 nights, rather than a hotel room.  Paris hotel rooms are notoriously miniscule (they must price real estate there by the square inch), and even though our “apartment” was hardly commodious it was still the much better option.  Get a one bedroom not a studio, so that if one of you is jetlagged you have the living room to read your book, rather than perching on the toilet in the middle of the night.  We used ParisAddress.com which gives you excellent information (including the square meterage of the unit) and you can book in real time.  It pays to do your homework on which areas of Paris you prefer.  We like  Ile Saint Louis (the little island behind Notre Dame) because it’s 17th century little streets are like a village in the heart of Paris.  Other areas to consider are the Marais (the medieval Jewish sector) and The Latin Quarter.  I prefer to avoid the Champs Elysee and Louvre areas because of the wide boulevards and traffic.  If you are set on a hotel check out Hotel du Jeu de Paume on the Ile Saint Louis (www.jeudepaumehotel.com) — small and full of character.

Another option is VRBO (Vacation Rental By Owner) which Kathy from Lets Travel told me about (minimum 2 nights).  Kathy said that she did this very successfully in Rome, where the owner picked them up at the Airport and showed them the nuts and bolts of the apartment.

The Lord Nelson Hotel

The Lord Nelson Hotel — said to be the oldest hotel in Sydney, it is situated in the Rocks area in a quiet backwater on the corner of Argyle Place & Kent Street.  It is a micro brewery, popular bar, brasserie and rooms.  The queen or king bedrooms with ensuite and breakfast (with contemporary fitout) cost $190.  The rooms offer individual charm and with only 9 rooms you wont find any specials for this hotel on Wotif.  I would however check how noisy it gets downstairs in the bar in the evenings.

Observatory Hotel

The Observatory Hotel – is now 16 years old but has the timeless appearance of an old (but stylish) English aunt.  The rooms are huge and luxurious and as a “small” hotel of 100 rooms you are really looked after by staff who really care.  Although they do have harbour view rooms (Darling Harbour, not the more spectacular views you get from Circular Quay hotels) I would choose the city view rooms – their standard room at $315 per night, and worth every penny.  (There may be specials on Wotif.)  It also has an amazing subterranean heated pool with twinkling LED lights on a deep blue ceiling — just like the movies — and a spa for massages and facials.  The high tea is quite special too.  This hotel is part of the Orient-Express group of unique hotels, cruises and luxury rail advantures.

With this thought in mind we recently spent 2 wks in one of our favourite places — New Zealand.  Close to home, and great value for money (the exchange rate is very much in our favour at the moment), NZ offers relaxed touring on uncongested roads, great food, wine and accommodation options and fabulous scenery … not a grey gum tree in sight.

International carriers like Emirates are only charging about $200 each way to Auckland, a city remarkably like Brisbane in size and feel.  We had two outstanding meals there – at the French Cafe (not a bit like a cafe, but a quietly elegant upmarket restaurant), and Soul at the Viaduct on the harbour.  Both remarkably busy considering that New Zealand has been in recession for over a year now.

Whilst in Auckland try to spend time on a nearby island called Waiheke, a charming 45 minute ferry trip from Auckland harbour. There are some excellent overnight accommodation options or just go over for the day. Besides being very scenic, there are wineries and olive oil producers — have lunch at Mudbrick Restaurant or Cable Bay Vineyards. Take a private tour of the island in a 6 seater bus with Christine Gisby www.seewaiheke.co.nz

A 40 minute drive north of Auckland is Matakana, a small village with an exceptional Farmers’ Market every Sat morning. Introduced to us by Lauraine Jacobs, a food editor with Cuisine Magazine (one of the best food mags in the world we believe, and comes bi-monthly out of little NZ). She has written a book about Matakana (recipes, where to stay and eat) so tap into some local knowledge and buy it directly from her: jacobs@ihug.co.nz

New Zealand is an easy place to discover yourself, but here are a few tips:

* Do rent a car and do a bit of research for yourself. Guided bus tours just take you where all the other tourists go.

* You need 2-3 weeks to get an overview, then re-visit and concentrate on specific places that took your fancy.

* For us standout places to visit were Bay of Islands, Hawkes Bay, Napier, Wellington (north island), and Marlborough wine area, Queenstown and surrounds, Dunedin (Lanach Castle and don’t miss Olveston House, a home in Dunedin built in 1905 and now a museum) and Oamaru in the south island.

* We tend to go Jan/Feb/March but you can fly direct to Queenstown in winter for the skiing.

* Another place to consider in Summer or Autum is the Marlborough Sounds. Walk bits of Queen Charlotte Track and stay at Bay of Many Coves Resort ($300-500 for 2 people per night for an apartment, but very special) www.bayofmanycovesresort.co.nz

* New Zealanders consider possums road kill (they are an introduced pest from Oz) and make the softest possum/wool knitwear out of it.

* Cuisine Magazine put out Cuisine Wine Country 2009, the perfect guide to all the wine regions — wineries, restaurants/cafes, accom and activities.  You wont go amiss just aiming your activities around these wine regions because they attract all sorts of other interesting things.  www.cuisine.co.nz

* I have a more detailed fact sheet which I can post you if you want more.

The mudmen were fascinating and the trip also involved visiting a coffee plantation, museum and the local Goroka markets. 

Since the Australians departed PNG the economy is fragile with, we’re told, corruption rife.  The traditional clan (Wontok) system does not blend well with democracy and it will probably take a couple of generations for this country to get its act together. Nevertheless, the people we met were happy, healthy and many spoke English — compliments of the various church groups that still hold sway in PNG.  Of course we did not visit Moresby and Lae where things are more chaotic.

In the Milne Bay area we visited a tiny island on Easter Sunday and attended the lovely stone church for a service.  The harmonising voices of 100 locals soared above the pounding of a tropical storm.  These people are strong, with deep faith.

The ship goes only to small, remote locations – having first organised the villagers to welcome us with special dances, firewalking, historic tours (related to World War 11), and just to show us their way of life.  We mostly did “wet landings” via Zodiacs and the ship has very knowledgeable expedition leaders who have great local knowledge.  Highly recommended.

On a small ship like this you meet everyone, it’s quite a personal experience.  One amazing 92 year old gentleman, who had been in the area during the War, went on all the tours including being transfered from Zodiacs to traditional outrigger canoes for a paddle up the Sepik!

Genuine, well-priced artifacts (carvings, pots, baskets and shells) were a bonus of our visit. 

A great read to get you in the mood to see a more personal side of Paris — ‘True Pleasures, A Memoir of Women in Paris’ by Australian author Lucinda Holdforth. She tells the stories of Collette, Marie Antoinette, Nancy Mitford, Pompadour, Coco Chanel and others, all strong women who made their mark. She introduces you to some of their favourite places in Paris:

* Palais Royal: arcades of shops and Le Grand Vefour Restaurant with its pretty, intimate salon — one of the oldest and best in Paris.

* Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore: teashop Laduree at No. 16, Ambassadors’ residences, Gucci, Hermes, Dior.

* La Mosquee: 1920s Morish-style complex with mosque, library, bathhouse and Salon de The, in the 5th Arrondissement.

* Faubourg Saint Germain: finely embroidered bed linen or hand-stitched silk nightgowns.

* Place Vendome: Cartier, Bulgari, Armarni are some of the smart shops in the impressive square. 1st Arrondissement.

* 7th Arrondissement: one of the prettiest areas of Paris with its hidden gardens, fountains, antique shops, art galleries, rare book sellers and intersting buildings. Rue du Bac narrows and becomes a cosy village with a little cluster of food shops.

* Avenue Montaigne: Chanel, Ungaro, Valentino, elegant stores, haute couure. 

Carcossonne – An almost perfectly restored walled city between Toulouse and Montpellier, it is of course crawling with tourists during the day but I recommend you stay at a hotel within the walls and emerge at night (everything is floodlit) to eat and enjoy the magic.  Take the tour of the castle.

Hotel Donjon — hotel.donjon.best.western@wanadoo.fr. 132-157E high season for a double room. Old world setting.

Hotel de la Cite — www.hoteldelacite.com if you are feeling cashed up, this Orient Express luxury hotel is wonderful. 375-525E per double. Or just drop in for a drink as we did but expect to pay $A14 for a beer — worth it though.

Uzes — this ancient town was the administrative capital of France when the Pope sat at Avignon. It is wealthy and rocks all year round, with fabulous markets every Wednesday and Saturday.

Chateau Hotel d’Arpaillargues — close to Uzes is a wonderful place to use as a base. 28 rooms and apartments in a grand mansion. www.lcm.fr.savry. June & Sept breakfast/dinner/room = 150-240E.

Aigues-Mortes – near Montpellier and now a land-locked port with a wonderful walled town. Good restaurants and shopping. Take the little train tour.

Saint Guilhem le Desert – in the hills outside of Nimes, lots of history in the village.  Eat and stay at Le Guilhaume d’Orange (www.guilhaumedorange.com). This charming restaurant with lovely rooms is worth the drive.

Nimes — boasts the most intact coleseum (used in the filming of Gladiator) – take the audio tour. 

Pont du Gard — outside Nimes, this extraordinary 3 tiered Roman acquaduct is worth the short drive.  Take a tour to get the full story. 

As you can tell by the photo (left), it was World Cup time and huge screens were erected in squares and bars, so nobody missed a thing.

Accommodation:

Rue St Louis is narrow and quaint, with sexy boutiques, food shops for the locals, a bar and some quirky gift shops.  Nothing much is open (except the bakery) until 10am, but it is awash with people at 10pm at night. Mind you, even in early autumn, it does not get light until nearly 8am.

Hotel des Deux-Iles — charming 3 star small hotel tho expect all bedrooms to be small which is usual for Paris. www.deuxiles-paris-hotel.com. 170E for a double, 11E continental breakfast.

Hotel de Lutece — run by the same people and next door to the above. www.paris-hotel-lutece.com. 185E for a double.

Hotel Saint Louis — in the same street as the two above but cheaper at 135E per double. Small rooms but some character.

Restaurants:

Mon Vieil Ami – in rue Saint Louis en I’Ile is almost next door to the 3 hotels above.  Excellent food with a more modern approach from a top chef. Small with nice contemporary decor. Drop by a book ahead. Entrees 11E, Mains 22E.

Petrelle – recommended by Serge Dansereau, this idiocincratic restaurant is charming and the food excellent. It is like dining in an eccentric friend’s home. The kitchen is open to the dining room. A cat was asleep on a chair at the front door. 34 rue Petrelle 75009 Paris (phone: 42 82 11 02)

Au Pied de Cochon – a large, quite old, famous restaurant that specialises in pork dishes. In what used to be the old market area of Les Hall, this is a classic bistrot style which has all the French favourites of French Onion Soup, Mussels, Snails, Pigs Trotters, special sausages, Foie Gras. 3-course daily special for 24E.  6 rue Cocquilliere (phone: 40 13 77 00).

Paris Walks

Highly recommended for the fleet of foot. Historians guide small groups every day on a different walk — The Marais, Ile de la Cite and Notre Dame, Medieval Latin Quarter, Village Montmartre etc. Cost 10E. Pick up a brochure from your hotel or ring 48 09 21 40. www.paris-walks.com

Petrelle –